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<p class="byline-dateline"><span class="byline" itemprop="author creator" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"  itemid="https://www.nytimes.com/by/kim-severson">By <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/by/kim-severson" title="More Articles by KIM SEVERSON"><span class="byline-author" data-byline-name="KIM SEVERSON" itemprop="name" data-twitter-handle="kimseverson">KIM SEVERSON</span></a></span><time class="dateline" datetime="2017-10-28T17:07:00-04:00" itemprop="dateModified" content="2017-10-28T17:07:00-04:00">SEPT. 19, 2017</time>
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        <p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="52" data-total-count="52" id="story-continues-1">HOUSTON — No matter what, cooks are going to cook.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="211" data-total-count="263">That’s really the only way to explain why Al Marcus, 70, was tending to 140 pounds of brisket in a backyard smoker just 12 days after Hurricane Harvey filled his midcentury house with four feet of bayou water.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="259" data-total-count="522">The smoker is steps away from what was a big, comfortable kitchen. Over the course of 26 years, he has braided a thousand loaves of challah and taught dozens of children to bake cookies here. On a really rocking Thanksgiving, he packs in more than 100 people.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="148" data-total-count="670">Now the kitchen he shared with his wife, Barbara, is a jumble of drowned appliances, stained spatulas and stink from a three-day soak in floodwater.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="286" data-total-count="956">Somehow, the washing machine ended up near the kitchen counter. After a few swipes with a bleach-soaked rag, it made a good enough surface to serve some of the brisket to the people from <a href="https://www.hands.org/about-us/">All Hands Volunteers</a> who were ripping out soaked Sheetrock at his house and homes all over Houston.</p><figure id="media-100000005430163" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005430163 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK6/merlin-to-scoop-127185575-781704-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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        <p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="368" data-total-count="1664" id="story-continues-4">In Houston alone, officials estimate that floods have damaged more than<a href="http://www.chron.com/news/houston-weather/hurricaneharvey/article/Latest-numbers-show-extent-of-Harvey-damage-in-12175543.php"> 100</a><a href="http://www.chron.com/news/houston-weather/hurricaneharvey/article/Latest-numbers-show-extent-of-Harvey-damage-in-12175543.php">,000 homes</a>. Harvey destroyed tens of thousands of other houses throughout South Texas. The wreckage in Florida and other parts of the Deep South from Irma has yet to be tallied. Between the two, the cost could run as high as $200 billion, according to <a href="https://www.cnbc.com/2017/09/11/harvey-and-irma-economic-hit-could-total-200-billion-moodys.html">early estimates</a> from Moody’s Analytics.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="204" data-total-count="1868">For many, the emotional and cultural impact is most keenly felt at mealtimes. The kitchen is the heartbeat of a home and, by extension, of a community. It’s where the day begins and often where it ends.</p><figure id="media-100000005429640" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005429640 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK1/merlin-to-scoop-127154840-944472-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK1/merlin-to-scoop-127154840-944472-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK1/merlin-to-scoop-127154840-944472-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Hundreds of homes in the tight-knit Nottingham Forest neighborhood in Houston flooded after officials made a desperate decision to open the spillways of the Addicks and Barker reservoirs to keep earthen levees from breaking. Many remained flooded more than two weeks after Hurricane Harvey hit Houston." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK1/merlin-to-scoop-127154840-944472-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Hundreds of homes in the tight-knit Nottingham Forest neighborhood in Houston flooded after officials made a desperate decision to open the spillways of the Addicks and Barker reservoirs to keep earthen levees from breaking. Many remained flooded more than two weeks after Hurricane Harvey hit Houston.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="338" data-total-count="2206">Gone to the storms are the kitchens where the woman who made the best tamales on the block perfected her craft, and grandmothers churned out the pans of macaroni and cheese that kept the family together. Gone, too, are the ones where homesick college freshmen bounded through the door, young marriages began and a child first tasted peas.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="311" data-total-count="2517">“It’s where I spent most of my time, not only cooking but reading, living and catching up with my son when he comes home from school,” said Francine Spiering, a Houston food writer and recipe developer whose home sat in water so long that she didn’t get back inside to start cleaning up until last week.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="226" data-total-count="2743">The list of what she lost includes her favorite knives, 40 cookbooks and countless plates and platters. Her kitchen was her office. Salvaging what she can and rebuilding may take six months. “It’s a nightmare,” she said.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="220" data-total-count="2963">Some people have already started to recalibrate life in new kitchens. Others will spend the next weeks and months cooking in upstairs bedrooms and mucked-out garages — anywhere they can MacGyver a place to make a meal.</p><figure id="media-100000005429812" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005429812 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20cook3/20cook3-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20cook3/20cook3-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20cook3/20cook3-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Dana Karni with two of her children, David Ilovz, 16, left, and Michal Ilovz, 14, stand in the remains of their kitchen. They hope to rebuild it, but the process may take six months or more." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20cook3/20cook3-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Dana Karni with two of her children, David Ilovz, 16, left, and Michal Ilovz, 14, stand in the remains of their kitchen. They hope to rebuild it, but the process may take six months or more.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="193" data-total-count="3156">Carla Buerkle, a food stylist who does mostly advertising work, is living on the second floor of her Houston home. She relies on a refrigerator in the garage and a gas grill with a side burner.</p><div id="story-ad-2" class="story-ad ad ad-placeholder nocontent robots-nocontent ">
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="81" data-total-count="3237" id="story-continues-5">“As long as you have refrigerator and grill, you’re pretty good,” she said.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="217" data-total-count="3454">But almost any equipment will do. A Dallas woman raised enough money to send dozens of Instant Pots to families in Houston. Others who understand what it means to lose a kitchen have donated coolers, cutlery and food.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="152" data-total-count="3606">Dana Karni, a lawyer, and her three children set up shop on their second floor in the city of Bellaire. The first floor is nothing but studs and cement.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="130" data-total-count="3736">When the water started pouring in, fast, just before dawn on Aug. 27, they had less than two hours to try to save what they could.</p><figure id="media-100000005429692" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005429692" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK2/20COOK2-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK2/20COOK2-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK2/20COOK2-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Ms. Karni, a lawyer, and her three children cook in a makeshift kitchen they set up on the second floor of their home." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK2/20COOK2-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Ms. Karni, a lawyer, and her three children cook in a makeshift kitchen they set up on the second floor of their home.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="193" data-total-count="3929">“Think about how you would prepare your kitchen for a potential storm,” Ms. Karni said. “You unplug things. You put things on cabinets. But you don’t think about what you would save.”</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="264" data-total-count="4193">As the water rose, she and her 16-year-old son struggled up the stairs with a small chest freezer that held the salmon she had caught on a trip to Alaska with her father. Her daughter, 14, who loves to bake, grabbed the KitchenAid mixer and put it next to her bed.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="267" data-total-count="4460">Ms. Karni carried up her expensive Japanese knives. If the waters rose too high and she and her children had to retreat to the attic, she imagined that she might be able to use the knives to cut a hole in the roof so they could climb to safety and wait to be rescued.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="199" data-total-count="4659">As it turns out, the water reached only halfway up the stairs but the entire first floor was a loss. So the family hung plastic, tore out the floors and the Sheetrock, and moved the kitchen upstairs.</p><figure id="media-100000005432621" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005432621 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20Cook14/20Cook14-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20Cook14/20Cook14-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20Cook14/20Cook14-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Ms. Karni and one of her sons hauled a chest freezer to the second-floor master bathroom during the flood. It was filled with salmon she caught with her father during a trip to Alaska." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20Cook14/20Cook14-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Ms. Karni and one of her sons hauled a chest freezer to the second-floor master bathroom during the flood. It was filled with salmon she caught with her father during a trip to Alaska.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="254" data-total-count="4913">The central playroom holds a little microwave and mini-fridge. An espresso machine is on the vanity in the master bathroom. The linen closet is the pantry. When her son heats up some schnitzel that an aunt dropped off, the smell drifts into the bedrooms.</p><div id="story-ad-3" class="story-ad ad ad-placeholder nocontent robots-nocontent ">
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="62" data-total-count="4975" id="story-continues-6">They probably won’t get back into their kitchen until March.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="103" data-total-count="5078">“You don’t realize how much you miss it, how central it is to the rhythm of your life,” she said.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="322" data-total-count="5400">Aimee Alley Taylor, a life and wellness coach, was not about to let go of her family’s ritual daily dinners after the hurricane flooded them out of their three-bedroom house in the Meyerland neighborhood. In the chaotic days that followed, they moved to four different homes before finding a little house to rent nearby.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="225" data-total-count="5625">Ms. Taylor hauled coolers of healthy food to each new place, making simple suppers for her husband and two elementary-school-aged children. “To me, those dinners have been what has centered us and kept us sane,” she said.</p><figure id="media-100000005430185" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005430185 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK12/merlin-to-scoop-127154672-192564-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK12/merlin-to-scoop-127154672-192564-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK12/merlin-to-scoop-127154672-192564-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Flooring, kitchen appliances, Sheetrock and soggy personal effects are piled in front of Ms. Karni&rsquo;s home. Hers was one of dozens of debris piles lining streets in Houston." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK12/merlin-to-scoop-127154672-192564-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Flooring, kitchen appliances, Sheetrock and soggy personal effects are piled in front of Ms. Karni’s home. Hers was one of dozens of debris piles lining streets in Houston.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="273" data-total-count="5898">Veterans of natural disasters can only advise patience and offer sympathy to the newly kitchenless. Judy Walker, the former food editor of The Times-Picayune in New Orleans, had to wait a year before her kitchen was rebuilt after the floods that followed Hurricane Katrina.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="168" data-total-count="6066">She limped by on the second floor with a hot plate, a microwave, her electric frying pan and a Crock-Pot. “It’s stunning what all you can do with that,” she said.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="321" data-total-count="6387">The biggest issue for her was getting the cabinets made, because there weren’t enough workers. Others couldn’t find flooring or appliances. Many people in New Orleans, she said, simply drove 10 hours to the Ikea in Houston. Others were given FEMA trailers, which they parked in their driveways just to have a kitchen.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="300" data-total-count="6687">Big concerns in New Orleans included <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/21/dining/21book.html">saving recipes</a> and deciding which equipment to sanitize and salvage. Many people didn’t want to save their flood-damaged cast-iron cookware, Ms. Walker said, which made a hero of the man who drove around afterward handing out free cast-iron pans from his trunk.</p><figure id="media-100000005430169" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005430169 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK8/merlin-to-scoop-127154996-45855-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK8/merlin-to-scoop-127154996-45855-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK8/merlin-to-scoop-127154996-45855-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="Andrea White, whose husband, Bill, was Houston&amp;rsquo;s mayor when more than 200,000 evacuees from Hurricane Katrina fled to the city in 2005, tries to dry out her cookbook collection after water flooded the first floor of the house in the Memorial neighborhood in west Houston." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK8/merlin-to-scoop-127154996-45855-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">Andrea White, whose husband, Bill, was Houston&rsquo;s mayor when more than 200,000 evacuees from Hurricane Katrina fled to the city in 2005, tries to dry out her cookbook collection after water flooded the first floor of the house in the Memorial neighborhood in west Houston.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="534" data-total-count="7221">Darlynn Lydick lives in Houston’s big, suburban Nottingham Forest neighborhood. She raises longhorn cattle at her <a href="http://www.twincreeksranchtx.com/TwinCreeksRanch">Twin Creeks Ranch</a>, and sells the beef to chefs and at farmers’ markets. About 700 pounds were in her garage, stored in commercial freezers, which she found popped open and floating in six feet of water. Some of the meat, she suspects, was eaten by alligators. Late last week, she and a crew pulled out the rotting meat that remained and set it on the curb with the rest of her family’s soaked household belongings.</p><div id="story-ad-4" class="story-ad ad ad-placeholder nocontent robots-nocontent ">
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="205" data-total-count="7426" id="story-continues-7">Ms. Lydick isn’t sure what she will want to salvage from the kitchen. “I think we can clean some of the silverware and the wedding gifts,” she said. “With pans, I don’t want to cook with them.”</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="219" data-total-count="7645">For people who lost everything, rebuilding a kitchen is far down the list of immediate concerns. For those who can rebuild — whether rich or poor — there is some hope in imagining what a new kitchen might look like.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="260" data-total-count="7905">Andrea White, the wife of the former Houston mayor Bill White, wants to move her cooktop from a center island to a counter by the wall once she cleans up from the foot of water that <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/post-nation/wp/2017/08/30/during-katrina-he-welcomed-flood-victims-into-his-city-now-the-former-mayor-of-houston-has-become-one/?utm_term=.195d3331d371">seeped into their home</a> in the exclusive Memorial neighborhood of west Houston.</p><figure id="media-100000005430167" class="media photo embedded layout-large-horizontal media-100000005430167 ratio-tall" data-media-action="modal" itemprop="associatedMedia" itemscope itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK7/merlin-to-scoop-127154861-962061-master675.jpg" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" aria-label="media" role="group">
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            <img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK7/merlin-to-scoop-127154861-962061-master675.jpg" alt="" class="media-viewer-candidate" data-mediaviewer-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK7/merlin-to-scoop-127154861-962061-superJumbo.jpg" data-mediaviewer-caption="His home uninhabitable, Mr. Marcus stands next to his beloved smoker as he prepares briskets to feed volunteers." data-mediaviewer-credit="Daniel Borris for The New York Times"  itemprop="url" itemid="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/20/dining/20COOK7/merlin-to-scoop-127154861-962061-master675.jpg"/>
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                <span class="caption-text">His home uninhabitable, Mr. Marcus stands next to his beloved smoker as he prepares briskets to feed volunteers.</span>
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="318" data-total-count="8223">Perla Moncivais, her four children and her husband are living with her parents while they gut their modest home near Greens Bayou, northeast of downtown. She, too, is taking some solace in dreaming about a new place to cook for her family. “I want an open concept with a table since I have so many kids,” she said.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="192" data-total-count="8415">Mr. Marcus, the brisket maker, has a food business called <a href="http://www.houstonpress.com/restaurants/grateful-for-bacon-6406255">the Grateful Bread</a>. He sells his handmade charcuterie and sauces to chefs, online and at the Urban Harvest Eastside Farmers’ Market.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="339" data-total-count="8754">Even the little kitchen losses are painful, he said. His oak casks of homemade vinegar got soaked. So did a big glass jar packed with vanilla that he had been aging for 15 years. It had been sealed with wax, but couldn’t withstand the floodwaters. Last week, the jar sat uncovered near the front porch, crammed with ruined vanilla beans.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="159" data-total-count="8913">“Looking at that hurts in ways you wouldn’t expect,” he said. “If I started this vanilla again tomorrow, I’ll be 86 years old before it’s ready.”</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="222" data-total-count="9135">Mr. Marcus knows that his kitchen — with dining spaces big enough for two long wooden tables — is probably a total loss. Rebuilding doesn’t make economic sense at his age. Besides, the house has flooded twice before.</p><div id="story-ad-5" class="story-ad ad ad-placeholder nocontent robots-nocontent ">
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="103" data-total-count="9238" id="story-continues-8">He thinks about all the holidays spent here, all the simple breakfasts he shared with his wife and son.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="202" data-total-count="9440">“It’ll never be the same, but it’s not over,” he said. “I wouldn’t say I’m upbeat but I have to see the bigger picture here. We’ve been through a lot worse, and we’re not destitute.”</p><button class="button comments-button  theme-speech-bubble-large" data-skip-to-para-id="">
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<p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="354" data-total-count="9794">He vows to have one more grand Thanksgiving dinner here, even if it’s just a shell. He can cook the turkeys, brisket and porchetta outside. His son, Matt, the executive chef and co-founder of <a href="https://8thwonderbrew.com/">8th Wonder Brewery</a>, can bring the green bean casserole he makes with béchamel and fried shallots. Everyone else can contribute bottles of wine and side dishes.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="85" data-total-count="9879">Just one more meal, then they’ll tear the house down and think about starting over.</p><p class="story-body-text story-content" data-para-count="141" data-total-count="10020">“That’s the loss to me,” Mr. Marcus said. “I don’t think I’ll ever have another kitchen that’s such a gathering place again.”</p><footer class="story-footer story-content">
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